Tudor North Flag is the new model, revived in order to celebrate the brand’s centenary, and instead of just making a birthday sticker that can be added on existing models, Tudor decided to revive one of their models.
Tudor North Flag was one of their underrated watches. Now it’s back, people seem to like it, at least other publications wrote about it and they say it’s amazing. I don’t feel this way. From purely design preferences, I think It is an ugly simple watch. That doesn’t mean it’s not good or beautiful, it just means I don’t like it.
If you have never heard about this watch, no worries. It came out in 2015, and it was the first Tudor Watch with in-house movement. In a way it made history. But here is the catch, it didn’t sell well. Nobody wanted the watch. So why all the people say that is amazing now? I don’t know either.
Here we are ten years later, with Tudor deciding to give the watch a second chance. I would say it’s a bad move to celebrate your 100th birthday with a watch that didn’t sell, but who am I to judge?
Why revive a watch that was hard to sell?
One could argue that the North Flag matters more than it sells or sold in the past. Yes, it was the first in-house movement, COSC-certified Caliber MT5621 is the reason why every serious Tudor has a proper manufacture caliber inside it. You could think that without the North Flag, Tudor Black Bay would not have an in-house movement today.
But is this a good reason? It’s not like they couldn’t add an in-house movement on another watch, it didn’t have to be the North Flag.
Anyway, maybe Tudor tried to point out that this model started something, I don’t think it’s nostalgia, just celebrating the fact that they added they started with in-house movements with this model.
It’s not their fault that their first watch with that caliber was a total disaster.
What changed for the Tudor North Flag 2026 edition?
It is the same 1970’s inspired shape that traces back to Ranger II, launched in 1973, a Tudor old field watch. You have the black dial, the big Arabic numerals, mixed handset, angular seconds, baton minutes, arrows shaped GMT hand and the integrated bracelet that completes the watch altogether.
And they came with some quiet upgrades:
Bracelet and case are sharper
We have the same 40mm case, but now it has better finishing. They used satin brushes on different parts of the case, polished chamfers that are running along on top of the lungs and bezel, and a winding crown that is finished with a mix of satin brushing and bead blasting.
The bracelet, which is two-link now has the Tudor’s T-fit clasp, which is good because it lets you adjust it on the go without any tools.
Power Reserve is gone
And I don’t like it at all. One of the complications I found useful is the power reserve. I love it on my Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpileur which I reviewed here. Alongside with GMT, World Timer, power reserve is one of the complications that I really like. Maybe if this wasn’t out, I could like the Tudor North Flag, just a tiny bit more.
The dial looks cleaner now, but it’s very simple and I don’t feel it like a tool watch at all.
Lume Blocks are 3D
Monobloc luminous ceramic are the chunky little blocks that give the dial some depth. Hour markers are made from that, and I admit it looks better than simple printed markers. Also there is a 24-hour scale on the rehaut, it is angled at 45 degrees for better reading.
Nothing impressive for me. I still hate the painted logo.
Tudor North Face has GMT Hands
Yey! I guess? OK, this is a big one, I admit. GMT is one of my favourite complications, like I already stated in this article. North Flag has a proper GMT complication and it tracks the second time zone using a fixed 24-hour flange around the dial. Because it is fixed, you can track only two time zones, not three time zones like you could do for example with Longines Spirit Zulu.
They had to ruin this somehow. Anyway, let’s not be all negative with this one. Because the movement was built for this, the local hour hand jumps separately and moves in sync with the date. So it is easier to set it and it takes only seconds to do it when you land in a new place and want to keep everything synced. Nice one Tudor.
The Movement is a Master Chronometer
They had to come with something good. And they did! Inside the case, the watch is powered by the new Caliber MT5652-U, and it feels like this is their flex. It’s not just COSC certified, It’s METAS as well, which means it achieved Master Chronometer status.
THis means that it has to run within 0 to +5 seconds a day, more tight than regular COSC standards which were improved recently. It also has to survive magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss without losing accuracy. Of course they solved the problem using a silicon hairspring and some other materials that Tudor didn’t mention for the time being.
The Caliber MT5652-U has a 65 hour power reserve, which is good and enough to survive a weekend of your wrist without the pain to set the watch again on Monday.
I feel like slowly Tudor is trying to push all their lineup toward Master Chronometer status, and the North Flag being upgraded seems a logical step and a move forward to that goal.
Tudor North Flag price is a little crazy to me
I admit, a lot of things got added, but still doesn’t justify the US$5.525 price. I mean you have the Longines Spirit Zulu, which in my opinion is better. Of course it is not a Master Chronometer, but you still have the COSC certification.
I admit the North Flag has good finishing but I don’t know, for that amount I would prefer something more beautiful. Because at the end of the day you look at the watch, not on the Master Chronometer certification.
If you want a Tudor, my advice is to go for the more popular ones, go for Black Bay, you will love the watch. The Tudor North Face was a fail and probably will be another fail. Maybe the third time will be better. Overall I feel like it’s an ugly watch, with certification over certification that is meant to steal our eyes. It tries to be a luxury watch, but it’s not.
It’s like you are buying an ugly Fiat with a Ferrari engine.
| Spec | Detail |
| Reference | 9140G1A0U |
| Diameter | 40 mm |
| Height | 12.7 mm |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Crystal | Domed sapphire (front and back) |
| Water Resistance | 100 m |
| Dial | Black, Arabic numerals, monobloc luminous ceramic markers |
| Movement | Manufacture Caliber MT5652-U |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
| Winding | Automatic |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Power Reserve | 65 hours |
| Certification | COSC + METAS (Master Chronometer) |
| Magnetic Resistance | Up to 15,000 Gauss |
| Bracelet | Steel, two-link, T-fit rapid adjustment clasp |
| Limited Edition | No |
| Availability | Tudor boutiques only |
| Price | US$5,525 |
For more information, visit Tudor’s official site.
