DOXA SUB 200 II: The Dive Watch That Dares to Go Bigger

DOXA just dropped the SUB 200 II, and the biggest talking point isn’t the new dials or the slimmer case ,it’s the size. In a world where watch enthusiasts are  obsessed with smaller dimensions, DOXA ignored the trend and  went the other way.

The original SUB 200 was launched at Baselworld 2019 as the brand’s most accessible Diver: 42mm, under $1,000, packed with heritage. Turns out they forgot the part with under $1,000 because these models start at €1590.

I feel like DOXA is going up with their prices. I admit that I didn’t follow DOXA for a long time, the other watch I wrote about was the limited edition Doxa SUB 300 launched at Dubai Watch Week in 2025. And I thought that was expensive. 

It used to be an  easy recommendation. Now, seven years later, DOXA has updated it. The SUB 200 II comes in at 44mm, which is a move that’s going to raise some eyebrows in 2026. But here’s the thing: the lug-to-lug sits at just 48mm, so those short, twisted lugs should make it wear significantly smaller than the stated diameter, much like its predecessor did. DOXA says it’ll feel closer to a 42mm on the wrist. I have to believe them until I get one on my wrist. 

Would I recommend it now? Nope, because it is supposed to be a watch under $1000. Not anymore. Or maybe I’m missing something. I don’t know 

A Slimmer Profile, A Bigger Presence

The size bump isn’t the only change to the case. The SUB 200 II is a full millimeter thinner, coming in at 12.80mm, compared to the original’s 13.80mm. That’s a meaningful difference, especially if you want to slide it under a shirt cuff easily. 

The case is crafted from a solid block of high-grade 316L stainless steel, like almost any other watch, water-resistant up to 200 meters, and fitted with a scratch-resistant, anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal. The unidirectional bezel with aluminum insert is still here. Nothing revolutionary, but nothing broken either.

One upgrade worth noting: the lug width grows from 19mm to 20mm,which opens up more strap options down the line.

The Fumé Dial Moment

This is where the SUB 200 II gets interesting. The SUB 200 II is the first DOXA collection to feature sunburst brushing on every dial option, as well as multiple regular-production fumé dials. That’s a first for the brand in the permanent lineup.

The fumé finish is the headliner here, and rightfully so. The gradient darkens progressively toward the periphery, creating optical depth, with a moiré texture beneath the surface that interacts with light in a way that rewards close inspection. Gimmicks that make us nerds excited. 

You have  five dial options: black (Sharkhunter), gray (Sharkhunter Vintage), blue (Caribbean), green (Sea Emerald), and the Redcoral. Super-LumiNova covers the hands, indices, and the entire outer minute track, for good  legibility in the dark.

The Redcoral Is Its Own Thing

The Redcoral variant is reserved exclusively for the black DLC edition: case, bezel, and crown all coated, with a deep red dial that shifts between mineral richness and organic warmth depending on the light. If you want the DLC treatment, Redcoral is your only path. And honestly, it looks like the most beautiful piece in the lineup in my opinion. 

Same Trusted Movement Inside

Under the screw-down caseback we have the Sellita SW200: a 26-jewel Swiss automatic beating at 28,800 vph, with around 38 hours of power reserve, hacking seconds, hand-winding, and a quickset date at 3 o’clock.  No surprises there, and no complaints either. The SW200 is a reliable, proven workhorse that does exactly what a tool watch movement should do. 

We all know this movement, there is not much to say about it that wasn’t already said. 

Straps and Bracelets

The SUB 200 II comes on either a Milanese mesh bracelet or a Tropic-style FKM rubber strap, with strap colors matching the dial. The Milanese is new to this collection and adds a nice vintage-modern feel. It features tightly woven links with an adjustable security clasp, and it works well with the overall look of the watch.

 I know a lot of people don’t like the Milanese bracelet, I saw that especially with the launch of the new Longines Hydronconquest which has a Milanese option. Personally I love them, it adds character to the watch. 

Also, I wanted to point out that Milanese bracelets are making a comeback. Omega with their Constellation Observatory has a gold mesh option, Longines with their new Hydroconquest the same. I would not be surprised to see more brands pushing this in the near future. 

Price

The four stainless steel versions retail for $1,750 on a steel bracelet and $1,690 on rubber. The black DLC Redcoral goes for $1,890 on DLC steel and $1,790 on rubber.  In euros, that’s €1,590 on rubber and €1,650 on Milanese for the standard versions.

Is it more expensive than the original SUB 200 was at launch? Yes. But the lowest-priced SUB 200 today already sits at $1,250, so the gap isn’t as wide as it looks. And for a Swiss-made diver with this much going on visually, the price still holds up well against the competition. But still, they wanted a watch under 1000. I know, inflation and all that, but it still bugs me knowing what they wanted with their first release and where we ended up. 

The DOXA SUB 200 II doesn’t reinvent anything. It takes something that already worked, makes it a bit better-looking, a bit more wearable(so they say), and adds the fumé treatment that the dial always deserved.  I’m curious if the increase in dimension will affect the sales, given the fact that everybody wants smaller watches. 

Time will tell.

Specifications

Read More

Daniel Razvan

Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop — Eight Pocket Watches, One Hand-Wound SISTEM51

Alexandru Silistraru

Swatch × Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop”: What We Know So Far

Daniel Razvan

Rolex Collaborations: Every Partnership the Brand Made Beyond the Watch World

Daniel Razvan

CIGA design Hunter Review: Style That Punches Above Its Price