Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel – flagship with a new face

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel has a new version with a silver  titanium case for which you have two options for colors: Red or turquoise translucent flinque enamel over an “engine” turned guiloche dial. 

Mechanically is unchanged, but the cleaner case design and high-gloss dial plate, transforms the visual impression and puts the focus on the central carousel, which serves as the time display and the heart of the movement. Also, Ulysse Nardin collaborated with Urwerk to release a special Freak, combining the craziness of the Urwerk with craziness of UN, a combination which gave birth to UR-Freak.

This model is limited to 50 pieces for each color, being the 4th member of the Freak S family.  Ulysse Nardin started in recent years to release only limited pieces and I don’t really like that. When you have too much limited edition, you can’t establish a model that will become a legend. That is only my opinion though.

A quarter century ago Ulysse Nardin debuted the Freak collection and it was a success, something new, unseen before. This gave the possibility to push the boundaries when it comes to movement design.

I think that Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel feels the most luxurious and premium model from the Freak line. Trading the exotic materials combinations for polished titanium and brightly coloured enamel gives the feeling that this watch is as radical as ever, but more luxurious and refined, 

The case of Freas S Enamel is 45 mm and is the simplest Freak S case till date. It has no carbon flanks and no PVD coating.  Because it’s polished and brushed it helps the large case to fade into the background and allows the enamel dial to shine, to be the star of this watch. 

The same thing applies to the rotating dial plate, which features a new radial fluted guilloche pattern coated in transparent flinque enamel.

Dial and Enamel -A masterpiece craftsmanship

The movement rotates every 12 hours as the hour hand and it features hand engraved radial fluted guiloche patterns which are covered in translucent enamel, while the base is 18K white gold alloy which has high palladium content for thermal stability during firing up to 800 degrees celsius. 

After the pattern is stamped, enamel paste is applied and fired multiple times until they reach the desired color and depth. 

Everything is made in house when it comes to the dial at Donze Cadrans, which I visited a couple of years back, maybe i will write about that experience as well. It was the place where I learned how enamel dials are made. Since then I appreciate all watches with enamel dials. 

Worth mentioning that previous models of Freak S dials used aventurine glass, raw guiloche and crystalized ruthenium.

Movement and Time Display

The calibre used to provide power to the Freak S Enamel is the UN-251 ( I love that they keep it simple with the naming of calibers), unchanged from the prior models , with a carousel rotating once per hour and the minute hand is fixed on ring gear. 

As always, it has two 20 degrees inclined silicon balance wheels which are linked by the world’s smallest vertical differential gear. And it looks like a helicopter from the future. 

Un-251 is the first automatic movement that has a double oscillator and it is often described as the most complicated time-only watch. 

The architecture of this movement maximizes space, it has 95% of components in motion, including six gear planes. Automatic winding system which is inspired by yacht winches and is using four pawls to efficiently wind the large barrel maintaining optimal torque which provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

The movement runs within the range of 0 to +10 seconds per day and they say UN-251 is tested near COSC standards. 

Time is set via the notched bezel and winding is made via the caseback.

Case, Strap and Availability of Ulysse Nardin Freak S

I already said that I’m starting to hate the Limited Edition watches, which let’s face it, Ulysse Nardin overuse.  The price is around 163.300 Euros. I couldn’t find anything to confirm this, but if this is the case, all I can say is DAAAAAAMMMNN.  

It’s expensive, very expensive and it is available at Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers. 

I also want to mention that the case is 45 mm, it has 16.65 mm thickness, sapphire crystal and the water resistance is only 30 metres. Again, for this money I want the watch to still function when I’m dead 300 meters under the water. 

The red Enamel dial comes with a white rubber strap while the turquoise one has a gray rubber strap.  Both have titanium folding clasps. 

I really appreciate Ulysse Nardin watches, I own a Marine Tourpileur which I love and it is one of the best watches I have alongside with Omega Seamaster 300 profesional . But this model at this price (considering the price is true) …way too much.