GPHG 2025 is here. That time of the year that all watch enthusiasts wait for. Well, the event hasn’t started yet, but the official candidates for the “Oscars of Watchmaking” have been announced.
I’m not gonna speak about all watches because there are a lot , but I will choose one or 2 from each category that I really like and really hope to win this year.
GPHG Short History
The Grand Prix d’Horologerie de Geneve is the most prestigious event in the world for watchmakers and people that are crazy about watches like me, or you if you read this article.
I know we are all used to seeing historic brands that were created 100 years ago, but GPHG is actually pretty young when it comes to the watchmaking universe. It was established in 2001 and their goal is to recognize and promote the year’s best watchmaking creations.
The selection of the watches is rigorous and it has around 800 members from diverse roles in the watch industry, including CEO’s, influencers, journalists and experts. And who knows, maybe one day I will be in that jury.
Members’ role is to nominate and refine the shortlist of watches in various categories. Then we have a smaller jury that will vote for the winners.
The ceremony takes place annually in Geneva, Switzerland and the winning timepieces are usually displayed all over the world in cities like Zurich, Dubai or New York.
For the last winners we had the honour to see the timepieces displayed in Bucharest, Romania as well. I wasn’t there, that was a sad day.
Aiguille d’OR what is it and why is it important?
Ok, think about Oscars, you have prizes for Best Sound, Best Music, Best image and so on. But two categories are really important, Best Movie and Best Actor.
It’s the same situation here at GPHG 2025, one watch might win in one category like Best Watch for Women, but the best watch for the show in that year is actually the big winner
The big winner is chosen from the watches that entered the competition in the respective year.
Simple, right? Now let’s get to the fun part of the article: which watches have entered the contest? Well, there are a lot, but I’m going to choose the ones I like. You can see the full list of GPHG 2025 nominated watches here.
In total we have 15 categories and we will go through them one by one.
Ladies
The name says it all, watches designed for Ladies.
We have 6 entries here, but I only like one honestly that I think it’s suitable for a lady. I’m not a fashion expert, but the Model from Louis Vuitton, Tambour Convergence platinum is the prettiest model from all the entries.
Ladies’ Complication
For sophisticated Ladies…joking. All Ladies are sophisticated.
I don’t have one that I really like, nothing stands out for me, but if I have to pick one probably I will go with Audemars Piguet code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon.
Time Only
This is the category for “simple watches” that only displays the time. And that’s time, no date, no other complications. Only one caught my eye. Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold.
Love the shape, love the colours, simple and beautiful!
Men’s
Now we enter my territory. None of the big names entered this category, maybe Zenith (if we can call them big) and Grand Seiko. But, my choice for this category would be actually the Urban Jurgensen UJ-2 Double wheel natural escapement.
So beautiful, definitely a watch that I would love to have in my collection!
Men’s Complication
Big names present here, like Audemars Piguet or Parmigiani Fleurier, which are both really nice , but for this category I will go with CHOPARD L.U.C Lunar One. I love the salmon dial colour and the overall aesthetics.
ICONIC
Big names again are present in this category, Bvlgari, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Piaget etc. One exotic presence is the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti collaboration and… I don’t like it! Can’t see when or where you can wear it and you would not look like a douchebag or Rick Ross.
My choice for this category is Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Simple, clean, and complicated at the same time.
Tourbillon
I don’t like the proposals of this year for this category. Actually I like the Urban Jurgensen Uj-1 but you can’t see the Tourbillon. What is the point of having one if I can’t see it? Strange!
I dont know what to choose honestly, but if someone would point a gun at me and shout “CHOOSE”! I would probably go with Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon T1
Mechanical Exception
Interesting watches in this category for GPHG 2025, love them all honestly. Hard decision to make. ( it doesnt matter honestly but i’m training for the day that i will be in the jury) And the winner is…Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante.
I love the design, the colour blue that circles the white dial complements the watch in a very sexy way. And the small sub dials are a touch of finesse. Beautiful!
Chronograph
I don’t really like chronographs (hold your stones guys). I mean I love Speedmaster but that’s it. We all have defects. I just want to say that Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date is ugly , more ugly than the name -which is way too long.
Looks like AP had a baby with Hublot. Anyway, for me the winner for this category is Louis Monet 1816. Simple, clean and different from the other chronographs.
Sports
Damn, it is very hard to choose. AP, Chopard, Grand Seiko, Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani Fleurier or Ressence. All those models look amazing in every way. I would probably go with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra Cernet.
It looks very nice, I love how the colours complement each other, and the designs of Parmigiani Fleurier are always top notch.
Jewellery
It’s hard for me to choose, again, but only because I don’t like any of them, that’s why I’m gonna ask my wife to choose one. And she likes the model from Simon Brette, Chronometre Artisans Joaillerie. I hope she doesnt like it too much because i dont have the money for it
Artistic Crafts
Damn Hermes, what’s with that watch? Anyway, I like two models. Chopard Quatro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition, and Louis Vuitton Tambour Bushido Automata. The last one only because I like samurai related stuff. For the originality, sort of, I would go with Chopard.
Petite Aiguile
This is a category that celebrates a good watch, but it’s not the best. Like in Football, you can win the Europa League, but the Champions League is bigger.
Anyway, I love all the watches from this category and I think they should give the prize to all of them. I love the form of H Moser & CIE or Otsuka Lotec. But honestly, the one I’m also planning to buy soon is Nomos Glashute Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. Superb watch!
Challenge
Really nice watches, especially Kurono Tokyo Jubilee Senso EOL Shiraai or BEDA’A Eclipse , but the one that really caught my attention is DENNISON Natural Stone Eye in Gold. Simple and perfect.
Mechanical Clock
When I think about this category the first thing that comes to my mind is Ulysse Nardin UFO, which is a great and expensive mechanical clock. Actually I have a friend that wants to buy that watch and can’t find it anywhere. We spoke with the guys from Ulysse Nardin but they don’t have it as well.
My choice for this category is TRILOBE Le Temps Retrouve. I love the combination of a bust with a watch. Nice one TRILOBE.
Aiguille d’OR GPHG 2025- The big prize, the watch of all watches for 2025
Very hard to say who will win GPHG 2025. All watches are beautiful, with some exceptions, I’m looking at you Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti.
It is very nice to have such a beautiful competition with exceptional models like we have this year. It’s kinda sad not to see some brands like Omega or Rolex in this year competition, and that says a lot about their directions when it comes to new watches or models out of the ordinary
And I really hope to see the Urban Jurgensen Uj-2 Double wheel natural escapement take the big prize home. I really love the design of that watch. My second choice is Nomos Glashute Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer.
Hope you enjoy the reading and let me know which are your choices and who you think it will win the Aiguille d’OR.
